The best of Yunnanese food

In summer, mushrooms awaken from damp earth with a rich abundance of flavours that even locals don’t seem to fully understand. Pine mushrooms, also known as matsutake and locally as songrong are prized, as are porcini, referred to in the area as niuganjun. Morels, or gaoyangdujun, and more local varieties including bamboo pith or zhusun, with their ruffled lace skirt and crunchy texture, remain favourites.

Many of these mushrooms can be found at stall 108 at Sanyuanli Market. While fresh fungus is available in summer season, frozen or dried varieties are plentiful for a taste of the woods any time of year – the latter can be found at stall 92 of the same market.

Some great cheeses produced within lush Yunnan can also be found in Beijing, stocked by places such as Jingdianquan Shop. They include rubing, a local goat or cow milk cheese that rivals Greek halloumi or mozzarella for its mild flavour and easily likeable flavour. It’s often pan-fried in rapeseed oil or wedged between slices of salty Yunnan ham. Rushan is another cow milk cheese favoured by the Bai minority and is often grilled or fried, sprinkled with sugary sweet additions or deep-fried. In similar spirit to cheesemaking, fermented tofu can be found with webs of mould hovering over it.

And, of course, there’s always tea. Pu’er, one of the most sought-after teas, comes in two main varieties: fermented and raw. Pu’er black and dark is often fermented and is one of the few teas that appreciate with age, like wine (raw pu’er ages well too). This ingredient is still treasured today, going beyond the cup to often be used in cooking, particularly for tea eggs.

The local products of Yunnan extend far beyond this short list. And, while there’s no real substitute for actually going, it’s absolutely possible to escape for a Yunnan-style meal without leaving town.

Shop directory 

Jingdianquan Shop First Floor, Building 15, Guangqumenwai Dajie, Chaoyang district (6776 4699). Open 9am-9pm daily. 京滇泉食品店，崇文区广渠门外大街15号楼底商

Sanyuanli Market Shunyuan Jie (opposite Jingkelong Supermarket, west of Sanyuan Dongqiao), Chaoyang district (8448 1509). Open 5am-7pm daily. 朝阳区顺源街（三元东桥往西京客隆超市对面）

Restaurant directory 

Dali Courtyard

It’s hard to find someone who’s been to Dali Courtyard and not had a great evening. Be sure to reserve, as this popular restaurant is often booked for private events. The prix fixe menu changes daily and is a massive bargain at 100RMB, a price that hasn’t changed in years. For those who don’t know the food of Yunnan, this is an excellent place to begin.

Middle 8th

Branches of Middle 8th are scattered from Sanlitun to Zhongguancun, enough that it’s not only a reliable and impressive destination, but also a great option from many parts of town. You’ll be sitting in one of the more striking museum-like dining rooms and one that celebrates the artisan culture of Yunnan in an understated display. The food is good and well presented, offering dishes including fried worms and, of course, an imagination’s-worth of mushrooms.

Yun Er Small Town

Perhaps the newest kid on the block is chef and owner Chen Tao, who still moonlights at nearby Dali Courtyard and has opened with the blessing and assistance of its gracious owners. Chen serves different dishes that sometimes have flavours of his southern home near Xishuangbanna. Yun Er Small Town may have a wonky name, but the food is solid.

Yunteng Hotel

Most provincial government restaurants are downright great (we stress most), and Yunteng Hotel upholds this convention. A cavernous dining room covered in plastic fauna will make you feel like you’re in a minority theme park, but close your eyes and roll with the kitsch – order to your heart’s content of local fare that’s downright wonderful.