What’s the story?
Womenswear brand Exception de Mixmind, based in Guangzhou, recently celebrated its 15-year anniversary but shows no signs of slowing down. Designers Mao Jihong and his then-wife Ma Ke set up Exception back in 1996, and while Mao has domestically pushed the brand forward, Ma Ke, who’s also behind the more artistic Wu Yong (or Useless), has had phenomenal success internationally. She has been featured at Paris Haute Couture Week as well as London’s V&A Museum.
Famous fans
Media mogul and long-term champion of China’s fashion industry Hung Huang believes Exception is one of the brands ahead of the pack: ‘Right now, it’s a billion RMB business – a true designer brand with 100 outlets selling both fashion and a lifestyle concept’.
Why we like it
Exception focuses on creating understated daywear pieces that are relaxed and comfortable. They also sell a selection of kids’ books in their China World store – one of seven in Beijing – which suggests that mum and baby are very welcome here. Elsewhere, Exception doesn’t shy away from bold-looking shoes that teeter towards the orthopedic. Tapered, tailored trousers in distressed wool will set you back 2,298RMB while a tie-dye jersey dress is 1,598RMB. It’s not cheap, but as the oldest and most established designer brand in China, Exception knows its niche.
What the story?
Decoster launched in 2000, and now boasts more than 60 Chinese stores across 16 provinces and three autonomous regions. Head designer Ziggy Chen was recently one of only ten designers featured in Vogue as part of its Fashion’s Night Out exhibit in Shanghai, alongside Uma Wang, JNBY and Jiang Qiong Er of Hermès brand Shang Xia. The resounding success of Decoster has given Chen and his team the freedom to really pursue a high-end line, Decoster Concept, which opened in The Village North last month. What to expect The space is impressive, an industrial setting that’s perfect for Decoster Concept’s latest androgynous, monochrome wares. The brand recently showcased its Spring/Summer 2012 men’s and womenswear lines to critical acclaim at Shanghai Fashion Week last October, and is now eagerly preparing for its first international showcase in Paris next season.
Why we like it
The key component to the new line’s ‘vintage’ aesthetic is the use of high-quality fabrics and specially treated natural fibres and textiles. A simple cashmere jumper is 1,298RMB while an overcoat is 4,898RMB. For men, a textured T-shirt starts from 1,598RMB, while a long, chunky cardigan is 3,298RMB. Decoster Living, the brand’s more affordable homeware line – with bowls, cups and plates ranging from 324RMB to 2,000RMB – presents a complete Decoster lifestyle to buy into.
What’s the story?
JNBY is the most affordable of our picks, but with more than 100 stores in China alone, it’s by no means the least successful. This womenswear brand was founded in 1994 in Hangzhou by a group of fashion students, and regular designer Li Xin was recently featured as part of Vogue’s Fashion’s Night Out (see above). Due to the resounding success of its pop-up shop in New York, JNBY now boasts a permanent space in New York’s Soho.
Why we like it
JNBY (‘Just Naturally Be Yourself’) might have a somewhat Chinglish name, but its aesthetic is fashion-forward. More importantly, JNBY’s take on luxe sportswear is unique, working with natural materials such as cotton, ramie, hemp, silk and wool. The palette rarely deviates, and Spring/Summer 2012 features lots of soft jersey separates, plus draping and layering in nude colours. We’ve got our eye on next season’s accessories, which include wicker brogues (612RMB) and leather clutches (826RMB). Plus JNBY currently has 30 per cent off Autumn/Winter pieces – a great opportunity to snap up some extra layers at a fraction of the price.
And for the men
Be sure to check out Croquis (or Su Xie), the sister menswear brand, founded in 2005. While Croquis has been chasing JNBY’s coattails for some time now, it’s been producing consistently interesting menswear for the high street, season after season. Also founded by a group of fashion students in Hangzhou, Croquis’s aesthetic continues in the same vein as JNBY, with pieces grouped by colour and unique items hung around the store. Leather desert boots will set you back 790RMB while a thick, quilted parka is around 1,480RMB. Be sure to check out the accessories, including weekend bags (1,980RMB), belts (320RMB) and leather pumps (850RMB).
What’s the story?
Zuczug was founded in 2002 by one of China’s most prolific designers, Wang Yiyang. It now boasts six stores in Beijing alone and over 60 across the PRC. The womenswear brand prides itself on modern, comfortable clothing in bold colours and strong silhouettes.
Going green
This is another brand that China fashion champion Hung Huang considers to be pioneering: ‘As a designer, Wang Yiyang is one of the first to use organic cotton, and it’s a very important message to the Chinese fashion industry.’
Why we like it
In case you’re wondering, the slogan ‘The end is the beginning’, emblazoned across a variety of its products, from thermal underwear to organisers, is part of Zuczug’s latest campaign. Currently still championing its Autumn/Winter collection, Zuczug continues its concept of producing mini collections, whereby a design comes with other pieces that have been created using the same fabric, but with subtle alterations – a clever ploy. So a modern take on a Chanel suit will feature a jacket (1,850RMB) alongside tapered trousers, a pencil skirt and a waistcoat. While the store might appear to be a random mix of colours, textures and prints, that’s part of its charm. Practical and playful is the name of the game and Zuczug knows its audience – puffa jackets, jumper dresses and a broad selection of denim (from high-waisted to harem to skinny – all 1,850RMB) will definitely appeal.