In the great East Asian family, South Korea is the fun-loving younger brother. Flanked by Japan (serious dad), China (post-pubescent sister) and North Korea (estranged cousin), South Korea keeps a relatively low profile, but it sure knows how to have a good time – and no one does it better than Seoul. Just two hours from Beijing, the Korean capital offers ancient palaces, beautiful parks, plenty of shops, good food and great nights out on the town.
Seoul is divided in half by the Han River. North of it lies the district of Jongno, where the city was founded and where most of its historic tourist attractions reside. Start at Seoul’s original centrepiece, Gyeongbokgung Palace (1 Sejong-ro, Jongno-gu; +82 2 2732 1931; 18RMB), which is Korea’s version of the Forbidden City. Although not as extensive as its Chinese counterpart, it’s a good way to brush up on the city’s history. On your way out of the palace, don’t miss the National Folk Museum (free with entrance tickets to the palace), which showcases historic clothing and weapons. Further south, near the Han’s north bank in Yongsan district, is the National Museum of Korea (137 Seobinggo-ro, Yongsan-gu; +82 2 2077 9000; free entry). The modernist building houses art and historic objects, with some pieces dating back to the Palaeolithic era.
In between Jongno and Yongsan districts, you’ll find Namsan Park (1 Hoehyeondong-ga, Jung-gu). Its peak provides a spectacular panorama day and night. The hike to the top takes 45 minutes, or the ascent can be done by cable car (45RMB roundtrip). If you need an even better view, climb the extra 237m up the N Seoul Tower, which stands atop Namsan (55RMB). The title of Seoul’s most interesting green space, however, goes to Cheonggyecheon. This 8.4km stream was paved over after the war to make way for a boom in motor vehicles but, under the guidance of an ambitious mayor, the Cheonggyecheon was released from its concrete tomb by 2005. Picnickers now enjoy its banks juxtaposed with Seoul’s skyline.
Head to the nearby neighbourhood of Myungdong to stave off those hunger pangs as you choose from a cornucopia of small restaurants and street stalls. Bulgogi (thinly sliced pieces of marinated beef sirloin) is a great choice for meat lovers, while bibimbap (a clay pot of fried egg, veg and spicy sauce) is also a good go-to dish and is best sampled at the ever-popular Gogung restaurant (2-14, 2 Chungmuro, Jung-gu (behind Hotel Se Jong); +82 2 776 3211). If street food is more your thing, dukboki (spicy rice cakes), kimubap (Korean-style sushi) and hotteok pancakes make tasty snacks on the go.
Looking for more traditional Seoul food? Near Gyeongbokgung Palace, you’ll find Koong restaurant (30-11 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu; +82 2 733 9240), which serves old-style Gaeseong dumplings.
Daehangno in Jongno is a Mecca for those seeking a good time. After dark, this hive of theatres and bars comes alive; neon lights are switched on and stalls and performance artists take over the street.
Hardcore clubbers should hit the Hongik University area in Mapo district, where hundreds of bars and clubs cater to the local student population with every kind of music. For hip-hop, try Noise Basement (362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu); for electronic, try M2 (367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu).
For a slightly older crowd and more sit-down bars, go south of the river to Gangnam district, which is also home to a thriving café culture during the day. Arguably the best spot for an afternoon latte is Garosugil, a hip street full of boutique stores as well as pricey but quality coffee bars.
Upon first arriving in Seoul, you’ll be taken aback by how well-dressed everyone is. There’s no lack of shops in the capital, so you can soon be clad just like them. The Apgujeong neighbourhood in Gangnam is home to high-end brands and is a popular hangout for Korea’s fashion-conscious upper class. However, some of Seoul’s best shopping spots are more about culture than clothes. Insa-dong (Jongno-gu) is an atmospheric, upscale alleyway à la Nanluoguxiang, full of traditional crafts, snacks and small shops. Those looking for bargains should explore Namdaemun Market (49 Namchang-dong, Jung-gu).
Bong House is a hostel with a fun, laidback atmosphere (117-2 Myeong Ryun-ga, Myeong Ryun-dong, Jongno-gu; +82 2 6080 3346; bonghouse.net). It offers both beds in dorms (from 110RMB a night) and ensuite rooms (from 325RMB).
For those with more in their wallets, the Ibis Myeong-dong Hotel (59-5 Myeong-dong, 1Ga Jung-gu; +82 2 6361 8888; www.ibishotel.com) has sleek rooms with LCD TVs and complimentary internet from 915RMB a night.
If you’re looking to splash out, The Park Hyatt (995-14 Daechi 3-dong, Gangnam-gu; +82 2 2016 1234; seoul.park.hyatt.com) is Seoul’s top five-star and is fittingly situated in the heart of swanky Gangnam district. Rooms start at 2,075RMB a night.
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