Stepping off the plane in Kathmandu, you will find yourself a dizzying 1,400m above sea level in a bustling city surrounded by lush mountains, wayward tuk-tuk drivers and explorers desperate to catch a glimpse of the looming Himalayas. Those interested in cultural sights and spiritual venues can meander around monasteries and temples and soak up a city that prides itself on being a conglomerate of nationalities and influences.
The residents of Kathmandu are a glowing example of its diverse culture, drawing upon Indian, Chinese and Tibetan heritage. This is reflected in the cooking, which combines a variety of far-flung spices and flavours. Delicious momos, for example, resemble dumplings but have the kick of a samosa.
This is an incredibly rich sightseeing region, which offers everything from thrilling hikes to chanting monks and tranquil spiritual journeys. About 120 native dialects are spoken across Nepal, the big one being Nepali. Hindi and English are common too, but, no matter where you go, you’ll always be greeted with a warm welcome of ‘namaste’.
Kathmandu is known for its paper and pottery production, not to mention all the stores in the Thamel district selling hiking gear, spices and teas. Make sure you buy fair-trade – a lot of the handmade items will have been put together by underpaid workers. Try shopping at Kupondole (you’ll locate it heading out from Kathmandu towards Patan), where you can escape the tourist traps of Thamel and find a number of fair-trade stores with high-quality goods at low fixed prices. Barefoot Paper Boutique has handmade wrapping paper, pencils, cards and natural paper books, while Anokhi Handicrafts sells lamps, soaps and other goodies. The stores across the road sell local fabrics such as Tibetan wools, hemp and cashmere.
The grand 43m-tall Boudhanath stupa (87RMB entry; +977 1 448 9257) is surrounded by spectacular hills and sits in the centre of a
mandala (a Buddhist square with four gates). Thousands of pilgrims flock here every year and walk around it in a clockwise direction, turning prayer wheels as they go. When the Tibetan trade routes were fully open, traders, pilgrims and travellers would pray here before setting off on a life-threatening journey over the Himalayas. Relax in the square and enjoy the view of moving people from the Boudha Stupa Restaurant & Café (
www.boudhastupacafe.com.np), home to delicious chicken
thali.
For spectacular views over the city, visit Swayambhunath, also known as Monkey Temple (10RMB entry; try a tour with Jai Mata Di Tours,
www.jaimataditours.com). Climb the 365 steps and monkeys will jump across your path to see if you have any food. At the top, you’re confronted with the watchful eyes on the stupa and colourful prayer flags; the 13 golden pinnacles at the top represent the stages to reach Buddahood.
Durbar Square is the most popular historical sight in the city (20RMB entry; +977 1 426 8969; www.kathmandu.gov.np). It’s full of Buddhist and Hindu temples, shrines and strange-looking mystic men called ‘sadhus’ wandering around. You’ll spot them a mile off – they usually dress in bright colours, wear their hair in dreadlocks and paint their faces. Durbar Square itself features more than 30 sites of interest, including Jagannath Temple, the oldest in the square. Dating back to 1563, it boasts detailed wood carvings on its roof and beams.
Also worth a look is the Kal Bhairave, which symbolises Shiva in his destructive manifestation. Go in the evening and you’ll find local women selling vegetables under the temples. Take a wander through the lanes to pick up plenty of souvenirs.
Active types wanting to soak up the greenery as much as possible before heading back to Beijing’s smoggy streets should opt for a hike starting from Dhulikhel village, just outside Kathmandu. The Himalayan Shangri-la Village Resort (+977 1 149 0612;
www.dwarikashimalayanshangrila.com) offers a walking package from 178RMB, allowing you to choose between trails of different lengths and difficulties. The three-to-six-hour walks will take you into rural Nepal, past small villages and rice farms, along dirt tracks and up to temples in the mountains. There’s also a small chance you’ll spot a tiger (although you’ll have to be really lucky).The guide will explain sites along the way; depending on your route, you may pass the hard-to-reach Namo Buddha Monastery, known for its age-old fable about a buddha who offered himself to a tiger to feed her hungry cubs. The Shangri-La resort also offers excursions, mountain biking, white-water rafting and kayaking on the Bhote Koshi, plus bungee jumps and bird-watching trips.
A great way to see the Himalayas on a short weekend trip is to splurge on a flight over Mount Everest. A small but sturdy plane ascends up to 8,000m and soars over the breathtaking snow-capped mountains – go at sunrise or sunset for a multicoloured view of the sky. The airlines also encourage you to visit the cockpit, where you get 180-degree views of the world’s highest mountain and perfect positioning for a photo to show off when you get back home. Several airlines offer this service for around 1,020RMB, including Agni (info@agniair.com), Yeti (
www.yetiairlines.com) and Buddha Air (
www.buddhaair.com).
On your way back to the airport, visit the heritage area at the Dwarika’s Hotel (+977 1 447 9488;
www.dwarikas.com). Here, you can sit in an old-fashioned courtyard and enjoy a coffee. While there, eat at the highly rated Krishnarpan restaurant, which serves Nepalese curries, meat, vegetables with aromatic spices, purified oils and saffron. To wind down before your flight home, try a traditional Newari massage at the Pancha Kosha Spa, which uses scented oils and acupuncture.
Getting there
Return flights from Beijing Capital Airport to Kathmandu via Hong Kong with Dragonair (www.elong.com) start from 5,260RMB.
Where to stay
Kathmandu Guest House The city’s original backpacking joint has a communal feel, with clean rooms and great surroundings. From 190RMB per night (+977 1 470 0800;
www.ktmgh.com).
Dwarika’s Hotel This luxury venue has 15th-century carved wooden doors, pillars, courtyards and even a colonial bar. From 2,785RMB per night (+977 1 447 9488; www.dwarikas.com).
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