Nanjing

A trip to Nanjing – the capital city for several of China’s dynasties and, briefly, the Nationalist government – may make you wonder why on earth they ever moved the capital back to Beijing. If only the houses had heating, it would be the perfect city. It’s full of trees, has a rich history and, when compared to its northern counterpart, is blessed with milder weather and far cleaner air. Plus, it is just a highly commutable 75 minutes by bullet train from Shanghai.

 

This month, especially, all eyes will be on Nanjing, thanks to the release of director Zhang Yimou’s new film The Flowers of War. The movie draws upon the history of the 1937 ‘Nanjing Massacre’, a bloody period in the city’s past, during which Japanese forces occupied and terrorised the then capital. The legacy of this can still be seen today in the many sobering Second Sino-Japanese War memorials and museums dotted around the city.

 

But, for tourists, Nanjing is more than just the sum of its tragic history. Visitors will discover a thriving metropolis, great cuisine – the salted duck is the must-sample dish for carnivores in the city – and a pretty good bar scene too. Best of all, it offers a great opportunity for those looking to escape the north for a dose of southern comfort.

 

 

The 14th-century Gate of China (Zhonghuamen) is found on the north bank of the Qinhuai River and is worth a look. It was originally part of the south side of the city’s defensive wall and resembles Beijing’s Qianmen, only without the mad traffic. Instead, this huge gate sits in its own set of lush gardens, ripe for exploring.

 

The key tourist area is, of course, the Confucius Temple (Fuzimiao). Just a short walk from Xinjiekou subway station, it lies in all its twirly roofed kitschness next to the Qinhuai River, complete with gondolas, photogenic bridges and a maze of tat shops. The temple predates the Gate of China by at least 300 years, going all the way back to the Song Dynasty, and shouldn’t be missed.

 

Elsewhere, there are plenty of reminders of the city’s more recent history in sights such as the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall (418 Shuiximen Dajie, Jianye district; 025 8661 2230; open 8.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, free admission). The building commemorates the estimated 300,000 victims of the Japanese killing spree that occurred during the Second Sino-Japanese War. It is harrowing, but highly recommended in order to understand the traumatic past of this city.  

 

Finally, Nanjing’s Purple Mountain offers up a healthy dose of scenic countryside. It has more sights than you can shake a digital camera at, with Sun Yat-sen’s Mausoleum, avenues of cypress trees, the Zijinshan Astronomical Observatory, Ming tombs, and cable cars leading an endless procession up and down the beautiful mountainside.

 

 

For local delicacies, Ma Xiangxing (32 Yunnan Bei Lu, Gulou district; 025 8328 6388) does an amazing squirrelfish (no squirrels are hurt in its preparation), although the service can be a bit iffy. For more upmarket dining, Ming Yuen restaurant is to be found inside the Parkview Dingshan Hotel (90 Cha Ha Er Lu, Gulou district; 025 5880 2888), which has found fame for its fine Huaiyang cuisine – basically a posh Jiangsu cooking style often seen as one of the four influential regional cuisines in all of China (the other three are Sichuanese, Cantonese and Shandongese). Otherwise, try Shanghai Lu, in the university district, which has plenty of Westerner-friendly joints – think Mexican, pizzas, sandwiches, coffee shops and bars.

 

 

Speaking of bars, the hip place to sink a few cocktails is 1912 District, a bar street which takes its name from the year that Sun Yat-sen founded the Republic of China with Nanjing (albeit briefly) as its capital. One expat describes it as ‘a mess of brick buildings and a melding of Sanlitun and Nanluoguxiang’. Blue Marlin (1912 District, 8 Changjiang Houjie, Xuanwu district; 025 8453 7376) is particularly popular here for its live Filipino band and imported beers.

 

Elsewhere, Shanghai Lu has more grungy, student-angled hangouts. Our tip is to try Behind The Wall Café (150-1 Shanghai Lu, Gulou district; 025 8391 5630) for cheap jugs of sangria.

 

 

Staying at the Nanjing Jasmine International Youth Hostel (7 Hequnxincun, 83 Shanghai Lu, Gulou district; 025 8330 0517) puts you right in the middle of all the Western pubs and cafés, with dorms starting from 55RMB per person. Jasmine is very traveller friendly, with wifi, cheap drinks, comfy sofas, plenty of toilets and so on – there’s even a family dog and cat to play with.

 

But if you not only want your own bathroom, but your own private Jacuzzi too, then you’ll be more at home at the Regalia Resort & Spa Qinhuai River (388 Yingtian Dajie, Qinhuai district; 025 5188 5688). It has got the works – Huaiyang cuisine, villas, river and park views – so take your time and indulge! 

 

Return flights from Beijing Capital Airport to Nanjing with China Eastern start from 930RMB (including taxes) at www.ctrip.com.