With its black-and-white chequered floors, hardwood bar and soundtrack of soft jazz music, Modernista could just as well be found tucked away in a Parisian backstreet as a Beijing hutong. This wine-bar-cum-jazz-bar-cum-movie-theatre will likely become a Mecca for the Euro-hipster (or, if you’re American, ‘Euro-douche’) scene. In its opening month, film screenings included Luis Bunuel’s surrealist classic L’Age d’Or, a film about an age of gold (as opposed to an oversized opening) that marked the director’s first cinematic split from Salvador Dali and contributed to their lifelong feud. It’s tempting to draw comparisons between the film and the bar itself: hidden away, relatively small, self-consciously quirky, lacking in mass market appeal – and all the better for it.
For all those who have the inclination to meander the hutongs in search of this hidden gem, you’ll likely be delighted at the 20-plus wines on offer by the glass, starting out at just 35RMB. Modernista has a selection and pricing structure that’s almost unmatched in Beijing. A long list of single malts, including Talisker 18 (130RMB) further adds to the quality drinks on offer. A noticeable lack of cocktail options doesn’t hinder much, although the beer range will further delight, with an international selection including reasonably priced treats like San Miguel (20RMB).
A small stage and a multilingual collection of books make this an ideal hutong hang out for the self-consciously hip. And while they’ll certainly have trouble pulling in a crowd – walk-ins will be pretty much an impossibility – a loyal following is likely to develop. Ross Goulding