The much-anticipated Capital M was a long time in coming. The restaurant’s proprietor Michelle Garnaut spent seven years scouting the location of her first project in Beijing.
After successes with M on the Bund in Shanghai and M at the Fringe in Hong Kong, ‘M’ fans would have expected nothing less. Housed in a traditional building at the entrance to Qianmen Street, its location could hardly be more prestigious.
Thankfully the designers of the space have been clever to adapt the interior to its surroundings, and Capital M exudes a stately confidence; a glamorous yet understated style very different from the ultra-chic pink and black hues of M on the Bund or the relaxing, rustic shades of M at the Fringe.
A black and white parquet floor runs through the bar and dining rooms, setting off the bold mural that decorates the back wall. The north-facing windows afford superb views of Zhengyanmen and Tiananmen Square, while open fires punctuate both the bar and the main dining room – a stylish addition with added appeal as the city plunges into winter.
Dinner at Capital M is, therefore, something of an event, and any meal here should be preceded by an expertly made cocktail in the bar overlooking the Square. M could easily be pretentious but, like its Australian proprietor, it has a frivolous, down-to-earth side.
The staff are fun and friendly, and even the menu’s classiest items are played down with tongue-in-cheek descriptions. To start, the lightly curried parsnip soup and a pile of parsnip chips is a delightful dish, made more so by the fact that it’s nigh on impossible to find parsnips in Beijing.
Meanwhile the twice-cooked pigeon with boudin noir and Harissa is tender, well presented and satisfyingly crispy on the outside.The dish even comes with a finger bowl so you don’t feel uncouth gnawing on the bones to get to every last delicious mouthful.
Of the main courses, the most popular item has proved to be the crispy suckling pig, done with roasted root vegetables and apple sauce.
The pig comes almost Chinese style, with a substantial layer of fat cushioning the meat and top layer of crispy skin, but it’s good and juicy as a result. However, while the starter portion of soup is on the small (if sensible) side, the slow-baked, salt-encased leg of lamb with smashed yams, sautéed spinach and sweet glazed shallots has the opposite problem.
Though perfectly cooked, there is rather too much lamb and not enough yams, spinach or shallots. Halfway through the dish you find yourself just eating hunks of meat, albeit tasty ones. To finish, M’s Very Famous Pavlova deserves the accolade: light and airy with a tastebud-pleasing passion fruit jus, it’s hard to beat.
Similarly, the Turkish coffee with homemade baklava and Turkish Delight (68RMB) is an unusual petit four you won’t find done better anywhere else; the super soft Turkish delight melts in your mouth as you take a sip of the sweet coffee, served in a copper ibrik.
A wonderful place for a cocktail, special dinner or even Sunday brunch, Capital M is quite simply a treat from start to finish. Sarah Keenlyside