Little Birch is certainly a throwback, but not to anywhere recognisably Soviet. We avoid the braised kangaroo tail on account of basic geography, and kick off with a bolshy borscht (10RMB), which is tasty enough due to some robust spicing, but still faintly depressing.
Next, we have two missile-shaped slabs of chicken Kiev (42RMB), which splurt butter at us with more force than can reasonably be expected. At least the Russian red beer (28RMB) helps to wash everything down. Despite this, if you’re in the area we’d recommend Little Birch for its time-warp potential. If you’re after Moscow vibes by way of Twin Peaks, head here, but expect more in the way of mild unease than laudable examples of the kind of grub babushka used to dish up.